Zenkichi

77 N 6th st.

Brooklyn, NY 11211

718.388.8985

It was Saturday night at nine thirty and I was really high. Taking my chances with the Williamsburg weekend crowd, I kept my head down as I passed Sea and made my way to Zenkichi, a modern Japanese Brasserie, or Izakaya, on North 6th and Wythe.

To the virgin eye, Zenkichi's exterior looks like a

hidden sex den, with long wood paneling completely covering the restaurant, leaving room for only one door lit by a single red light. Sexy. Once inside, we were escorted directly up a flight of stairs and into a bamboo forest. Or at least that's what it looked like to me

at that level of lucidity. In actuality it's a series of dimly lit, mahogany built private tables, connecting throughout like a bamboo colony. I was mystified the entire evening and wanted to see a floor plan. Each unit is equipped with a button for service and a bamboo curtain which remains down unless attended by a server. And boy are they cute. Like little Sailor Moons.

I was impressed with how quickly and gracefully the girls opened and shut the bamboo blinds. It made me recall times of extreme frustration with Ikea curtains in college. I also really felt like I was having a unique, private dining experience, until I realized that the guy at the table across from us could see me quickly take a jab at my crotch under the table.

I've heard it said that they always play Jazz standards. Well that's just a mistake. Once you settle into your little nook and the immediate charm of feeling like you have been transported to Japan wears off, you start to hear the hum of other table's conversations, and then behind that, Jazz standards. Random right? It totally kills the high. And I'm not saying they should play traditional Japanese music, but something mellow and sexy and modern, since their concept is all about innovation?

I only drink unfiltered Sake, and I'm really picky about it. I can't say why. Our waitress recommended a pretty straightforward Dassai that I had never tried and it was amazing! I couldn't wait to taste the food paired with the Sake.

Skipping the Omakase for two (we weren't feeling Sashimi so we opted out of the tasting menu), we ordered a la carte.

Wasabi marinated Octopus: Raw. And so spicy I couldn't eat it.

Sweet duck salad: Greens were way overdressed, the Duck was lost.

Amago (Eel) and cream cheese Tempura: You better not fuck up fried cheese.

Salmon Chazuki: Salmon was perfectly cooked over rice and they topped it with a tasty broth table side.

Fried Chicken wings? Kitchy, not innovative. My Fiancee ordered them.

Blackened miso Cod: Perfection.

Japanese cuisine is based on well cooked and balanced food. These dishes were so well balanced, and so minimally and awkwardly paired, that the flavors either fell flat, or just weren't there at all.

The neighborhood is dicey on a weekend to smoke, cops are everywhere now to patrol the herds of douche bags gathered outside Sea or chasing their girlfriends into traffic. But if you walk north a little further and dart down N. 9th or something, their are plenty of tree lined and dark streets with stoops.

I give Zenkichiout of

Blazeability: